Chile: Chock full of Springtime Wonder

Chile, Tasting Notes No Comments

Springtime is glorious in Chile.  Sunshine abounds and vineyards are bursting with new life; the 2009 vintage of Chilean wine has been born.   A delightful, enlightening trip this month (in their mid-springtime, November) uncovered more than a few stunning examples of why wines from Chile are making their mark around the world.   One that may be most known here is Carmenere. 

Carmenere resurfaced in Chile in the 1990’s after it was thought to be extinct in Bordeaux when phylloxera destroyed the vineyards in France.  Interestingly, around that time, Chile was planting vineyards they believed were Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  The Merlot that Chile produced seemed to have a much more pronounced spiciness and a different fruit profile than what is typically found in Merlot.  Inquiring minds and palates were moved to study this further, and upon completion of DNA studies, it was learned that the previously identified Merlot plantings were actually Carmenere.  Chile rapidly expanded the planting and production of this lush, spicy varietal; often called “Chile’s varietal”.   Stay tuned for more about several Carmenere gems, noteworthy Cabernet Sauvignon, and other impressive wines made in Chile.

 In the foothills of the Andes Mountains in the Maipo Valley you will find the picturesque Vina Haras de Pirque property owned by the Matte family.  They share their love of world class wine with their passion for raising thoroughbred horses, and continue to receive accolades in both regards.  Winemaker Cecilia Guzman explains there are 140 hectares of vineyards planted on the 600 hectare estate.  They produce wines at their uniquely designed horseshoe shaped gravity fed winery built on a hillside.   Their vertical shoot positioning trellis system in the vineyards provides for excellent canopy management, good air flow and optimum exposure to the sun.  Their wines are aged in 100% French oak:

2006 Elegance (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) showcases cassis, raspberry jam, subtle oak notes and an herbal earthiness that adds complexity.  A bit restrained in its youth; this full bodied, structured wine has plenty of tannins to balance the dense fruit.  This wine promises to age with grace and refinement for years to come.  

Tasting the 2000 vintage Elegance gave us a peak at what the 06 vintage will grow into with its pretty dark fruit, cassis and tobacco flavors filling the palate expansively.  It is well balanced with nicely integrated oak, finishing long with cedar, leather and herbal notes.

From various regions around Chile, we enjoyed a tasting of  “garage” wines (term used for those crafting a limited production of wine in a small facility or their own garage).  Derek Knapp led us through an informative tasting, with highlights including:

Meli 2005 Riesling from Maule Valley:  Flinty, stone notes fill the nose; followed by lean, focused stone fruit flavors and a splash of citrus filling the palate; delightfully delicious.

Flaherty 2005:  From the Aconcogua region comes this nicely balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Syrah (40%).  Ripe plumminess rises from the glass and remains bright and focused with accents of vanilla and a hint of spice; pretty finish too.

Garage Wine Company 2006 #50 Syrah:  Made from grapes grown in the Aconcogua Valley in Chile’s central valley, this meaty, richly fruited Syrah with small bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) is a gem.  Layers of smoky toast and cocoa tantalize the palate, weaving through generous dark berries at the core.   

Also impressive from the Garage Wine Company is their 2007 #14 Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 5% Carmenere from grapes grown in area of the Maipo Valley closest to the Andes.  Although still a baby, this wine screams mountain cab, with its big structure, minerality and dense, layered fruit.   Oak presence is evident now and will become increasingly more integrated as it continues to age - a powerhouse wine that should develop very nicely.

 At the prominent Concha y Toro estate (where they welcomed their 100,000th visitor this month) we were treated to a broad range of delectable wines, including several priced to fit most any pocketbook. 

2007 Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc (around $15) from the Casablanca Valley.  Situated close to the ocean, this region offers a cool Mediterranean climate, well suited for this varietal.   Mouthwatering aromatics are full of freshly mowed grass and herbal qualities.  Bright citrus focused fruit and racy acidity shine brightly from entry, through the palate, to the attractive finish that captures a pleasing touch of honey. 

Their 2006 Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay from the Maipo Valley opens with aromas of roasted almonds and stone fruit, and showcases a judicious use of oak.  In the mouth, an artful blend of minerality alongside creamy, ripe pear and peach flavors delicately intertwine with zesty lime and lemony citrus notes.  Beautifully balanced!

2007 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere:  Incredible aromatics on this classic Carmenere lead to an abundance of black plums and juicy blackberries on mid palate, with a thread of sweet green pepper and plenty of spiciness.  Muscular tannins with plenty of fruit to balance them out.  What a steal at around $10.

2006 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada:  A seamless blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) from the Pirque Vineyard in Maipo Valley and Syrah (40%) from the slopes of Peumo, Rapel Valley.  Opens with dark fruit and licorice aromas, round and full on the palate with layers of currant, blackberry and cherry and hints of eucalyptus.  Beautifully integrated and balanced with a juicy finish.

 2005 Don Melcher Cabernet Sauvignon: One of Concha y Toro’s top of the line offerings (named after founders Don Melcher and his wife Dona) comes from the Puente Alto vineyard in the Maipo Valley.  This blockbuster Cab that greets the nose with cassis, black cherry and tobacco notes.  Focused with good depth of concentrated fruit, a touch of anise, artful oak integration on mid palate, and a good dollop of spice including black pepper, thyme and basil adding dimension on the finish.  Structured tannins suggest a long life, too. 

Anakena Winery: Founded by Felipe Ibáñez and Jorge Gutiérrez, this property is handsomely perched at the foothills of the Andes mountains in the Alto Rapel Valley.  They planted the first vineyards in 1999, and today they have over 400 hectares planted in various terroirs in Chile including the Ninguen Hill in Colchagua, Leyda in the San Antonio Valley and Alto Cachapoal in the Rapel Valley.  We were warmly welcomed by Tatiana Cerda and chief winemaker Gonzalo Perez. 

We were simply wow’d by their 2008 Ona white, which is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Viognier; what a palate pleaser!  Gorgeous florality in the nose, with notes of stony minerality, herbal essence and ripe peach and apricot flavors that meld together in perfect harmony and compliment the lively acidity.  Refreshingly bright and ever so quaffable.

 2008 Anakena Viognier:  From the Alto Cachapoal Valley this single vineyard viognier’s exotic floral, perfumed nose is irresistible and the mouth feel is equally impressive.  Flavors of ripe peaches sprinkled with ginger and nutmeg flourish on the palate and the finish is soft and elegant with subtle oak notes. 

2006 Anakena Carmenere: Spicy, smoky aromas waft from the glass, and the minute the purplish red hued elixir meets your lips, inviting flavors of warm blackberry compote laced with toffee open up and remain full and focused.  Attractive minerality and coffee overtones last through the lingering finish.  This 100% Carmenere from the Rapel Valley is one amazing bargain for around $10.  The 2007 is fabulous as well; similar fruit profile and a bit earthier than 2006 with a touch of green pepper and finely structured tannins along with a delectable coffee, toffee, praline finish.

 2007 Anakena ONA red blend:  A lively blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Carmenere (30%) and Syrah (20%) all from the Rapel Valley that boasts a cornucopia of flavors.  The Cab’s firm tannins and cassis flavors at the core, the Carmenere’s sweet, chewy berry fruit and dash of spice, and the earthy, meaty essence of the Syrah meld together brilliantly and seamlessly.  This well crafted wine is approachable now, yet built to last for years. 

 Viu Manent:  In the 1930’s Miguel Viu Garcia and his two sons formed the Bodegas Viu Wine Company and the family winery has expanded and grown from there ever since.  Today they have 270 hectares of planted vineyards in the Colchagua Valley, and produce about 170,000 cases of wine.  Chief Winemaker Grant Phelps provided an entertaining and enlightening tour and tasting of several vintages of their Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.

1999 Cab Sauvignon:  Essence of oak and tea leaf in the nose; followed by dark berry fruit flavors framed by fresh rosemary and dried herbs; a nicely developed wine with soft elegant tannins and a clean, lingering finish.

 2001 Cab Sauvignon:  Enticing fruity aromas followed by a mouthful of juicy blackberries, cassis and hint of toasty oak and spice on mid palate broadcast a varietally correct and lovely drinking Cabernet Sauvignon.   This vintage is full bodied, round and balanced, with dry tannins offsetting the juicy fruit perfectly.

 2003 Cab Sauvignon:  Abundantly fruit driven in the nose; with a seductive entry leading to a bright explosion of ripe black cherry and raspberry flavors zinging around the palate.  The generous fruit is complimented by anise and eucalyptus accents and attractive nuances of spice and French oak barrel aging.  Ends with a viscous, smooth cherry cordial finish. 

2004 Cab Sauvignon:  Smoky aromatics make way for enticing soy and freshly picked wild berries on center stage, with a kick of spice and hints of toasty oak that add another dimension.   Extremely balanced and well structured with supple tannins.

2005 Cab Sauvignon:  Cherry liqueur aromatics transition seductively to gobs of ripe berry and cassis cloaked in spice on mid palate.  Juicy and inviting with plenty of complexity.  Oh so rich, with silky, refined tannins and a forever finish.

2006 Cab Sauvignon:  Pretty florality and a splash of root beer on the nose; leading to a mouthful of generous, juicy blackberries framed by subtle oak and anise.  Still young and tightly woven with powerfully structured tannins, this wine will age beautifully. 

The vertical tasting of Viu Manent Malbec revealed vintages displaying a commonality of soy, bacon fat, and brown spices:

2000 Malbec:  Intense soy and teriyaki aromas at first whiff lead to dusty herbs and dried fruit on the palate.  Tannins hold firm through the finish with dried berries and a slight tobacco leaf note showing through.  Balanced and drinking well now; should continue to show well over the next couple of years.

 2001 Malbec:  Aroma full of violets and wild berries that carry through on mid palate with faint hints of soy and root beer.  Soft, round and more delicate than the 2000 vintage with berry fruit, subtle oak and gentle tannins blending artfully, creating an ethereal mouthfeel and clean finish.

2003 Malbec:  Intense berry aromatics and pie spices jump from the glass and lead to a viscous mouthful of blackberry, mushroom, soy and brown spices coating the palate richly.  Firm, velvety tannins and powerful fruit suggest a long life.

 2004 Malbec:  Opens with intriguing bacon fat and soy in the nose; which diminishes with aeration and transition to a pretty florality.  Firm, structured tannins wrapped around a core of concentrated black and red fruits are dominant on the palate, complimented by spice notes and soy. 

2005 Malbec:  With this vintage the aromatics are all about herbs and soy; followed by black fruits and a generous dollop of pumpkin pie spice on the palate.  Lovely texture on the palate, with a huge tannic backbone surrounded by blackberry and currant fruit accented with nutmeg.  Full bodied and bold; will last for years.

2006 Malbec:  A distinctive nose of soy and caramelized brown sugar lead to a mouthful of dark raspberry fruit laced with toffee - delicious.   Showcases a beautiful purity of fruit, with toasty oak, coffee and a pleasant smokiness that add complexity on the palate.  Additional aging time should further integrate the layered flavors, if you can wait!

2007 Malbec:  Soy and liquid smoke dominate the aromas, with a young wine grapiness still lingering.  After aeration, fresh red cherry and raspberry flavors begin to shine through; yet still a bit angular.  A full bodied wine with firm tannins and generous fruit that will blossom more fully as it further matures. 

 Vina Montes located in Colchagua was founded by Aurelio Montes, Douglas Murray, Alfredo Vidaurre and Pedro Grand back in the 1980’s.  Their 1987 Montes Apalta Cabernet Sauvignon became the first premium export Chilean wine, which opened up a path soon followed by other Chilean wine producers.  They unveiled their new winery at Apalta in the Colchagua Valley in December 2004.   Here is a snapshot of some of their impressive wines:

 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Limited Selection:  From the Leyda Valley comes this fabulous example of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, with aromatics of fresh mowed grass and focused citrus notes.  From the initial entry through the palate, lively grapefruit grabs the taste buds and holds plenty of interest with its racy acidity, fresh kiwi and citrus fruit intermingling handsomely. 

 2008 Rose of Syrah:  Crushed raspberries on the nose followed by snappy cranberry, strawberry and raspberry flavors blending harmoniously on the palate.  Appropriately dry and fresh with a pleasing note of minerality, and very clean and vibrant on the finish.

2008  Montes Pinot Noir Limited Selection:  From the Casablanca Valley, bright red cherry aromas draw you fully into this Pinot Noir.  The cherry fruit flavors are enhanced with red licorice and a delightful smokiness through the palate.  A well balanced, medium bodied Pinot Noir with a pleasurable texture.  The finish is long and lingering; quite a bargain at about $14. 

 2007 Montes Cabernet/Carmenere Limited Selection:  From the Colchagua Valley this charming blend opens with black raspberry aromas and explodes on the palate with raspberry, cassis, spices and black licorice notes accompanied by a flavorsome nuttiness through the finish. 

2005 Montes Purple Angel:   Here is a stunning example of Carmenere from Chile (blended with 8% Petite Verdot).   Provocative aromas of tobacco and dark berries in the nose make you want to linger endlessly before taking the first sip.  Once you do, the black fruits stand tall on the palate, surrounded by enticing herbs, smoke, subtle oak and a hint of chocolate.  The lush, concentrated fruit is well balanced with the velvety tannins; an angel indeed!

2005 Montes Apalta M:  From the slopes of Apalta, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Merlot (5%) and Petite Verdot (5%) with its inviting fruity, herbal aromas has a rich texture and tons of complexity.  Layers of mushroom, toffee, black currant and a generous sprinkling of fresh herbs unwind stylishly on the palate; and linger through the lasting finish.

 Neyen de Apalta:  The Raul Rojas family had owned the 125 hectare property for decades, and in 2002 the winery was born.  The original Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards were planted back in 1890 in the Apalta Valley of the Colchagua Valley.  Thirty of the original hectares provide the foundation for their premium wines today.  Neyen produces 1500 cases of their highly respected red blend wine from deeply rooted vines:

Neyen 2003:  This darkly hued blend of Carmenere (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) opens gracefully with smoky, blackberry aromas, and glides heavenly over the palate with rich fruit and beautiful oak integration (70% new French oak).  It is balanced and boasts a long, lingering finish.

 Neyen 2004:  Spice comes forward expressively in the nose of this vintage, followed by black currant,  berry, a pretty touch of oak and enhancing spice that broadens fully in the mouth.  Very focused and elevated on the palate, with a smooth texture and a similar impressive long finish as the 2003 vintage.

Neyen 2005:  Notes of tobacco compliments the berry flavors that rise from the glass, and continue to build with dark red and black fruits on the palate.  Complex with layers of black and red fruit and spice and pretty, velvety tannins; built to last for years.

Vina Echeverria:   The vineyards and winery of Vina Echeverria (owned and managed by the Echeverria family) are located at parallel 35 degrees south in Molina, Curico Valley, between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.  Head winemaker Roberto Echeverria Jr. shared with us the family’s passion for all that happens in the vineyard and beyond; treating the vines and fruit with utmost care.  Roberto emphasizes that no pesticides are used in the vineyard; they are meticulous about integrated pest management.  In the glass, their passion shows through clearly:

2008 Sauvignon Blanc:  Enticing herbal, green pepper and mineral notes in the nose; followed by a burst of grapefruit, lemon and mineral notes on the palate.  The juicy citrus fruit and focused acidity are refreshing, bright and clean, a treat on a warm sunny day, or anytime; and what a bargain at around $10!

2005 Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon:  Anise and plums come forward in the aromas of this Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Syrah and 5% Carmenere adding complexity.  Black currant, plums, chocolate, caramel and anise are layered artfully on the palate and expand broadly through the pleasing, persistent finish. 

2001 Echeverria Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon:  Opens with ripe berries and licorice on the nose, eucalyptus and minerality accent the blackberry and plums that fill the mouth.  The bright palate of fruit and sweet tannins are well integrated and delightfully balanced.

2004 Echeverria Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon:  Opens with inviting aromas of cocoa and black cherries, and once it hits your palate it’s as though you’ve bitten into a deliciously juicy chocolate covered cherry; truly irresistible.  Plush tannins with elegance across the palate, and the finish is bright and persistent. 

2005 Echeverria Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon:  Opens with understated mixed herbs and licorice in the nose; and then a blast of plums and black currant surrounded by leather and spice notes explodes onto the palate - wow.  A richly orchestrated mosaic of flavors with wonderfully sweet tannins, and finishes divinely.

1999 Special Selection Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc:  Honey and sherry-like on the nose, complex and viscous on the palate, with flavors of brandied fruit cake and figs complimented by honeyed nut flavors.  Beautiful botrytis characteristics; this vintage could hold its own against many famous sauternes.   Great depth and intensity with a heavenly finish that goes on and on and on!

2005 Special Selection Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc:  Clearly a younger version of its 1999 predecessor.  With this 2005 vintage, bright honeysuckle welcomes you into the glass and blossoms richly with apricot, honey and candied orange notes.  Creamy and viscous yet plenty of acidity to balance it out; look to the future as this will age with grace and become even more alluring as it matures.

El Huique Wine Cellars:  The adobe building at El Huique was built in the 1870’s and vineyards were planted in the 1930’s, at which time some of the buildings were transformed into wine production cellars.  The beautiful 5,000 sq. meter interior patio is planted with vines and surrounded by lovely floral enhanced verandas.   Favorite wines here include:

2004 Carmenere:  From 25 year old vines, this Carmenere boldly showcases green pepper and spicy tea in the nose; and juicy red cherry fruit laced with spice on the palate with accents of green, pink and black peppercorn notes weaving throughout.  Lush, elegant and well balanced with firm tannins.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Marchigue Estate:  Primarily Cab Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc blended in; this wine is brimming full of intriguing anise and green pepper aromas.  Focused blackberry, black plums, currant and tobacco flavors are bold and nicely layered on the palate.  The impressive complexity with structured tannins holding up the generous fruit suggests excellent ageability.

Lapostole:  As we toured the stunning property and viewed the vineyards at Casa Lapostole, the energy and excitement was tangible.  They had just been awarded the coveted Wine Spectator 2008 Wine of the Year for their 2005 Clos Apalta (Colchagua Valley)!  They practice biodynamic farming for this highly acclaimed blend of Carmenere, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The berries are handpicked in small baskets and sorted and destemmed by hand, as well.  They restrict the yield to ensure ideal concentration of fruit, which is evident in their wines.  During the impressive tour and tasting we were reminded that Chile has the unique distinction of growing grapes on original, ungrafted vitis vinifera rootstock.    Favorites here included:

2008 Casa Sauvignon Blanc:  Here is a striking marriage of flinty mineral characteristics, lemon lime, peach and melon that ooze from the glass with the delectable layered fruit flavors on the palate.  A distinctive spine of acidity keeps it crisp and balanced; what a steal for around $10.

2007 Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay:  A brilliant, sparkling hue with aromas of just ripe fruit and minerality that persist from the nose through the palate is just the beginning.  Juicy stone fruit flavors are focused at the core with a dose of butter and warm spices, and a delightful viscosity with enough acidity to keep it lively and fresh.  Finishes with a lip-smacking honeyed note.

2006 Cuvee Alexandre Merlot:  Almost a biscuity quality in the nose surrounds ripe black raspberry, plum fruit and an attractive earthiness in this Merlot blended with 15% Carmenere.  Black and pink crushed peppercorns add another dimension and keep you reaching for more!

1999 Cuvee Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon:  Inviting smoky, earthy, tobacco notes in the nose; consistent with a palate full of alluring forest floor mushrooms and red currants.  Beautifully integrated with sweet tannins that top off the lingering finish.

2006 Clos Apalta:  A blend of Carmenere, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that grabs your full attention from the dark purple hue, to the rich black cherry, blueberry nose, to the creme de cassis, cherry and blueberry exploding on the palate, through the perfectly integrated oak, refined tannins and everlasting finish; wow.

Vina Casa Marin:  Located in the village of Lo Abarca (2.5 miles from the coast) in San Antonio Valley, this family owned winery is proud to own and manage Chile’s closest vineyards to the Pacific Ocean.   As you would imagine, the San Antonio Valley appellation is influenced by this close proximity to the ocean; a climate ideal for growing grapes.  Oswaldo treated us to a wonderful vineyard tour, and a unique, special tasting that won’t be forgotten.  Favorites include:

2007 Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc:  Incredibly welcoming aromas of citrus and herbal notes jump from the glass and carry through on the palate with layers of melon, nectarine, grapefruit, and a lovely thread of minerality.  Full bodied, lively and focused with plenty of acidity keeping it fresh and bright from start to very satisfying finish. 

2004 Lo Abarca Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir:  I must say I wasn’t expecting to be bowled over by Pinot Noir in Chile; but this one from the cool San Antonio Valley really grabbed my attention.    It begins with a smoky, dried cherry nose and fans out richly on the palate with lush black cherry and freshly crushed berry fruit, spicy accents and forest floor nuances.  Silky tannins and perfectly integrated oak add to its charm; simply irresistible!

The Garces Silva Family is at the helm at the Amayna property in the Leyda region in San Antonio Valley.  Warm days and cool nights suit their vineyards well.   Grapes are hand picked, followed by a meticulous hand selection process, and treated with great care each step of the way in their gravity fed facility.  Among their impressive wines are:

 Amanya 2007 Sauvignon Blanc:  All about tropical fruit in the nose; sun ripened papaya, pineapple and banana waft from the glass.  The mouth feel is creamy and the expressive fruit laced with herbs really captures the taste buds.  A vivid thread of acidity balances the rich fruit impeccably.

Amanya 2006 Chardonnay:  Aged in 50% oak and 50% stainless steel, this Chardonnay opens with toasted marshmallow and buttered biscuits on the nose; followed by essence of banana cream pie and roasted nuts on the palate.  Complex and nicely crafted with an attractive hint of oak lingering through the finish. 

Amanya 2007 Pinot Noir:  Another beautiful Pinot Noir from Chile, this one from Leyda in the San Antonio Valley - I’m a believer now!  The lovely perfumed nose of violets and a hint of smoke are intoxicating.   Focused and clean on the palate with cola and spice wrapped around ripe raspberry and black cherry fruit at the core.  Elegant with velvety smooth tannins and a memorable finish. 

Vina Errazuriz was founded by Don Maximiano Errazuriz in 1870 in the Aconcagua Valley.  In 1985 Eduardo Chadwick became the fifth generation of the family to be involved in the business, and became President in 1993.  Through the generations they remain committed to producing the finest wines from the Aconcogua Valley.   A delightful tour with Pedro gave us an up close perspective of the thriving vineyards. 

You may have heard that earlier this year at the Beijing Wine Olympics, their Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 2004 and 2005 defeated top French classics and Italian Icon wines - quite a feather in their cap; and this is not their only impressive wine:

2008 Sauvignon Blanc:  Their first single vineyard SB from the Aconcogua Coast (newly designated appellation in Chile) shows distinctive green pepper and fresh grass in the nose with a hint of gun smoke.  The flintiness carries through the palate and is complimented with abundant fresh kiwi and subtle spice.  A kick of acidity keeps it lifted on the palate. 

2007 Wild Ferment Chardonnay:  From the Casablanca Valley, with hand picked fruit, carefully selected berries and wild fermentation using native yeasts, this is a very impressively crafted wine.  Wet stone, minerality and toast greet the nose; and a burst of pineapple and crisp Asian pear dotted with an alluring hint of lemon and focused minerality fill the palate.  Complex and full bodied, reminiscent of a sophisticated Burgundian style wine - wow.

2006 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon:  Aged in 50% new French oak, this Cab opens with aromatics of anise and cassis.  On the palate red and black currant and tea spice meld nicely with tobacco and leather notes.  Nicely incorporated flavors and well integrated oak that persist through the finish. 

1999 Founder’s Reserve Don Maximiano:  Aged 20 months in 40% new French oak, this wine is complex with an old world elegance about it.  Green tea on the nose leads to layer upon layer of black cherry, cassis, caramel, hay and an attractive earthiness filling the palate, with a hint of soy sauce adding further complexity.  Superbly balanced with refined tannins that cap it off to perfection. 

Corcoran Gallery is a “garden” winery in the high valley of the Maipo Valley (DO San Juan de Pirque).   Clearly a well executed creation of Madeline Corcoran and partner/winemaker Javier Rodriquez, who literally do everything from tending to the vines, picking and sorting the fruit, fermenting and aging, and bottling the wine.  They have just under one hectare of 35 year old vineyards planted at an elevation of 680 meters; and produce one very special wine, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Their warm days and cool nights (typically 30 degree C difference in temperature) serve the vines well; and their care in the vineyard and meticulous winemaking practices along with their deft handling of French and neutral American oak combines to produce a jewel of a wine. 

Their exquisite 2005 Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon unites the beautiful fruit forward characteristics of a new world wine with the elegance and earthiness of a treasured old world wine.  The alluring aromas display black currant, cassis and a hint of licorice; and layers of cassis, black raspberry, toffee and tobacco along with an attractive earthiness captivate the palate - wow.  The purity of fruit is impeccably balanced with velvety tannins and the finish simply goes on forever; an impressive first vintage for Madeline Javier.  Keep an eye out for future vintages, too; I certainly will.

Vina Almaviva:  A joint venture between Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux and Chile’s Concho y Toro, Almaviva produces a rich, powerfully structured blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Cabernet Franc, grown in the Puente Alto region of the Maipo Valley.  Winemaker Michel Friou and Commercial Manager Diego Garay provided an enlightening tour and tasting of three vintages of Almaviva, each one with a striking profile: 

1999 Almaviva:  Distinctive earthy, eucalyptus and cigar box aromas provide an intriguing entry into the mouthful of mineral laden bright red and black fruit cloaked in cinnamon spice and smokiness.   Remarkably balanced with plenty of potency and pure elegance at the same time; simply divine. 

2002 Almaviva:  This vintage emanates an appealing herbal minty bouquet, and a rich concentration of black cherry and cassis fruit dotted with spicy, herbal qualities fills the palate.  Well structured with firm tannins, and a kick of orange peel adds dimension to the long finish.

2006 Almaviva:  The 2006 vintage features dense black cherry aromas with a sprinkling of cinnamon, and an intense expression of fruit at first sip.  Through the palate, cinnamon and cocoa notes meld dreamily with the black cherry and cassis flavors, gliding exquisitely through the finish.  This full bodied wine sports a velvety texture with plenty of complexity and refined, silky tannins and will age gracefully for many the years. 

Why not expand your wine horizons; visit Chile and seek out my discoveries, or uncover wonders of your own!

Expressive Old Vines Reign Supreme in Spain

Spain, Tasting Notes 2 Comments

For those searching for identification of terroir, and wines with great depth and character, a tour through Spain’s DOQ Priorat, DO Montsant, DO Conca de Barbera and DO Terra Alta regions of the Tarragona province (Catalonia, Spain) is a must. The cultivation of grape vines in Spain goes back centuries; and throughout these regions exist a wide range of geography, climate and soils, as well as many century old vines. My recent visit to Tarragona uncovered unique and well crafted wines; and the depth, character and “sense of place” shined through brilliantly. Come along and travel vicariously with me through the regions…

PRIORAT

Priorat, located in central southern part of the province of Tarragona, has been a wine producing region for several centuries. This region, which has significantly grown in popularity over the past decade, was a Designation of Origin (DO) for years, and gained approval of the higher level Denomination of Origin Qualified (DOQ) in December 2000. The quality of Priorat wines over the centuries have been based on the unique climate and soils. Here, the soil is all about layers and layers of slate. Of volcanic origin, their black, gray, red and brown slate with small particles of mica, is known as llicorella. Several different microclimates exist; summers tend to be long, hot and dry; and winters are quite cold; getting down to zero temperatures at times. Classic old vines here include Carinena and Garnacha.

A good place to start is the Viniteca Mayol Wine Center, located in the middle of the region in Torroja del Priorat. With their temperature controlled wine cellar, in-house laboratory, Wine Club, virtual shop, reference library, tasting/training room, and more, this is a fine place to experience and learn more about the world of Priorat wines. The friendly staff offers services including arranging training courses, visits to cellars and more. From a retail perspective, this charming shop offers fine wines and other products from the region. A number of excellent wines from the D.O.Q. Priorat were unveiled here, including the following favorites:

CellarVall Llach’s stunning 2005 Vall Llach (63% Carinena, 24% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a beautifully crafted blend which includes fruit from old vines approaching their 100 year mark, on the slopes of Porrera. Enticing aromas waft from the glass. Dense, rich concentrated dark berry flavors weave artfully with slate and mineral notes gloriously filling the palate. Nicely integrated tannins and oak notes carry through the long, persistent finish.

Genium Celler 2005 Costers Vi De Duarda: 50% Carinena, 20% Garnacha and 10% each Merlot and Syrah make up this harmonious blend. Some of the fruit comes from nearly 100 year old vines planted on intensely steep slopes. This wine opens with alluring spice accented black cherry aromas. Terroir driven minerality is present right up front in this blend that clearly exemplifies the region. The stone notes add complexity to the everlasting dark berry and black cherry flavors, and a pleasing dose of vanilla and spice from 14 months of oak aging add depth and character.

Cellers Ripoll Sans Closa Batllet “2 Vynes” 2005: Gratallops is the home of this old family winery with vineyards up to 90 years old. This 100% Carinena from two different vineyards opens with the essence of earth and minerals on the nose; followed with juicy dark berry and minerality persisting at the core. Aged for 15 months in French oak, this is one striking Carinena delivering balance and pretty tannins throughout.

Celler-Pahi’s 2006 Gaubanca Negre: Grapes in this blend come three different vineyards, 35% Garnacha vines are terraced and planted in 100% llicorella soil, 50% Carinena is planted 30% on terraces and 70% on the plains in calcareous and llicorella soil, and 35% Merlot is terraced and planted in clay and calcareous soil. The resulting wine is equally complex; with delectable chocolate and minerality on the nose; a full chewy mouthful of chocolate covered coconut, juicy black fruit and licorice melding melodiously on the palate, ending opulently with ever so velvety tannins.

A visit to the Vinicola del Priorat in the Gratallops further awakened palates with again the sense of old vine and mineral characteristics. The 2004 Onix Sellecio is 100% Carinena from 80 year old vines which are harvested by hand. Aromatics of spicy mulled wine lead to a nice backbone of ripe berry fruit laced with a cornucopia of cinnamon, clove, pleasing earthy spices and a dash of cedar on the mid palate. A rich and full bodied wine with tannins that are evident but not overpowering.

Celler Capafons Osso: From their old vines (the most mature of which are 103 years old) in the DOQ Priorat comes their Mas de Masos, from an estate made up of small farmhouses in two valleys where the forest surrounding the vineyards create a unique microclimate influencing the temperatures). The 2000 Mas de Masos is a well built wine full to the brim in both aroma and flavor of wild berries, wild fragrant cherries, and the slate driven minerality that is so prevalent in the Priorat.

It is also here in Priorat you will find the Ferrer Bobet Winery, a shining gem which was created by Sergi Ferrer-Salat and Raul Bobet seven years ago. Some of the vineyards here are up to 100 years old. From the moment it comes into view; the sleek modern architecture, clean contemporary lines, and the immaculately groomed surroundings of both the new gravity fed winery and the extraordinary century old vineyards are very impressive. As we traversed through the attractively terraced vineyards growing throughout the high elevation and steep terrain, Sergi, our host, unfolded the history and passion behind Ferrer Bobet. The facility was clearly put together with plenty of thought and hard work, not to mention the up front investment. When questioned about the cost; Sergi simply said “it took a part of our soul, how much does that cost”? Located in the southern part of Priorat, Ferrer Bobet encompasses 70 hectares with elevation ranging from 400 to 700 meters, and is one of, if not the coolest zone in the region. The vineyards are staggeringly steep, boasting healthy vines that are treated with extreme care. They can irrigate young vines; but the DO regulations specify when you must stop irrigating. Foliage exposure is improved by implementing precise vertical cross over trellising. Very few other regions around the world subscribe to this trellising.

At harvest time the fruit is carefully picked and placed into 10 kilo hand held bins which are filled to 80%. Their uncompromising practice of allowing NO raisin-y berries to pass through the sorting of grapes eliminates over-ripeness. The dual colored bins are stacked in an alternating fashion to protect the precious fruit. The berries are cold soaked to extract color and flavor before fermentation (higher risk of microbial issues if grapes are compressed, explains Sergio); and the cold berries are then crushed. They use 15 and 30 hectoliter fermenting barrels for the Carinena (Carignan), and stainless tanks for fermenting Garnacha (Grenache); with no fining or filtering to purposefully capture the full character of the grape variety.

Across from the vertically trellised vines are 90 to 120 year old weathered, expressive Carignan vines that are head trained, with 8 shoots per vine. These stately vines enjoy the morning sun and yield 14 hectoliters per hectare, just below 1 ton per acre.
They typically harvest 3 weeks later than other wineries in the region, and pick at a time to maintain a good level of acidity; emphasizing their preference of avoiding over-ripeness and volatile acidity. They meticulously remove weeds in the vineyard by hand (four field workers spend four months hand picking the weeds from the vineyard; which is necessary as the weeds compete with the vines for water). The owners and crew are intensely focused and obsessed with biodiversity and organic practices; no herbicides or insecticides are used whatsoever. Even eye appeal in the vineyards is important, as evidenced by the metal stakes painted various slate shades of gray, black and brown for better visual integration into the vineyards.

By law here, they must reach a minimum of 14% alcohol for the D.O; (they simply don’t reach phenolic ripeness below 14%). Ferrer Bobet produces about 20,000 bottles, of which 4,000 are imported to the USA, and they sell out quickly; no surprise!

Some may call the soil schist; but Sergi emphasizes what is here is slate (schist is not as layered as slate). Water takes forever to percolate through the slate, which is fine grained and multi-layered, and breaks apart in your hand with gentle pressure. Below the rocky slate lies decomposed slate with clay. As the rocky soils here retain little water, the vines are stressed and deeply rooted. The vines absorb elements of nitrogen, calcium, phosphorous and potassium; these nutrients have an obvious effect on the genetic profile of the vines. An unmistakable sense of terroir; a true and recognizable sense of place; is very evident at first sip of the wines. The taste of slate and graphite are underlying and clearly permeate through the richness of the berry characteristics.

A barrel taste of 2007 Carinena from southeast facing vineyards already shows enticing aromas and a huge extraction of fruit. Medium toast on the barrel (without toasted heads) promise nicely integrated oak. The berry component is showing plenty of richness and complexity; with the signature minerality shining through. The 2007 Carinena from east facing vines at the highest elevation opens with generous forward aromatics. A lovely purity of concentrated, but not overly jammy fruit dominates on the palate, with spice notes and plenty of the slate driven minerality adding complexity.

Ferrer Bobet’s 2005 Seleccio Especial (85% Carinena, 10% Garnacha, 5 % Syrah) displays gorgeous expressive cocoa and berry aromas and very distinctive mineral notes. Muscular and firm with leather, berry and spice flavors up front; with violet and chocolate nuances adding complexity on mid palate. Focused acidity balances the rich fruit. An elegantly structured wine with power and elegance dancing in perfect harmony.

It’s been said that “Priorat is much more talked about than drunk” but if these wines are any indication, Priorat wines should continue to gain accolades and significantly increase in demand by both casual wine aficionados as well as more serious wine professionals and collectors.

MONTSANT

Montsant is a relatively new wine denomination, created in late 2001; although vines were grown here decades ago as part of a sub-zone in the DO Tarragona called Falset. The Montsant DO was created to differentiate this small mountainous area with low yields from the high yielding vines within the sea level plain areas. Head trained vines are primarily found here, some of which are more than 50 years old, with Garnacha and Carinena being the most widely planted varieties grown. The hilly, mountainous areas here, with the Montsant river running through the northern region produce intense, powerful wines. Soils are diverse, from limestone, to pebbles and silt in the river areas, to the mountainous areas which include both rocky granite and shale soils. Red varieties include Carinena, Garnacha negra, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Macabeu and Merlot; white varieties include Garnacha Blanca, Garnacha Peluda, Monestell, Pansal, and Parellada.

Capcanes, a small village in the Priorat hills inland from Tarragona and southwest of Barcerlona, is home to Celler de Capcanes. Their vineyards range from about 200 meters at the valley floor to almost 650 meters in the highest terraces, where you’ll find the oldest Grenacha vines, some of which were planted early in the last century. Capcanes produces a wide variety of full bodied wines, and is also the first winery in Spain to produce a kosher wine. Early in the 20th century, grapes were picked and delivered to local farmhouses (Masias) for vinification. Equipment and practices were not extravagant and limited the quality and quantity of wine. In the early 1930’s, five village families established a Cooperative, which enhanced the commercialization of wine. The wine was processed and sold in bulk until 1980; when they began to sell grapes prior to fermentation. This continued for 18 years; when in 1998 they decided to process the entire village’s grapes at the Cooperative. The modernization ensued; and was completed in 2001; at which time the official D.O. of Montsant was created. The primary grape here is Garnacha; followed by Carinena as well as Syrah, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The Capcanes 2005 Cabrida, made 100% from Garnacha low yield old vines (up to 95 years old) is an extraordinary example of the Montsant DO. Cherry, wild berry and black raspberry flavors weave a delicious fabric of pure fruit and meld together perfectly with subtle earth and stone notes. Focused, concentrated and brilliantly structured with well integrated tannins.

The 2006 Cabrida Calissa, also pure Garnacha from up to 95 year old vines, is showing jammy ripe fruit and a hint of gaminess in the nose; followed by copious, dense black fruit, accents of limestone and a splash of oak on the palate. Complex with huge firm tannins that suggest plenty of ageability ahead.

To finish off the tasting; we were treated to their beautiful sweet red dessert wine, the 2004 Pansal del Calas. Inviting aromatics are just the beginning of this potent elixir. What an explosion of flavors on entry with rich, mouth filling chocolate covered sweet berries balanced with wonderful acidity taking center stage. Generous, supple texture with plenty of weight and a long, lingering finish.

Also impressive from this region is Cellar Laurona’s 6 Vinyes 2003. Florality and ripe plumy aromas jump from the glass and lead to a rich, viscous mouthful with layers of black currants and juicy plums, attractive stone and mineral accents and a dash of oak teasing the palate pleasantly.

Another Montsant DO highlight was a visit to Agricola Falset-Marca, which was officially formed in 1999 when cooperatives from two villages, Falset and Marca joined together. They produce a range of wines primarily based on old vine Garnacha and Carinena grapes. Among the top notch wines here include the delightfully bright and clean Etim Rosat, a delicious rose made from old vine Garnacha and Syrah. Intense aromas and flavors scream of fresh raspberries and strawberry pie. Refreshing, clean, and very well balanced.

Castell de Falset 2004: The spicy, woodsy, earthy aromas along with flavors of dark currants and black cherries led me to think there may be some Cabernet Sauvignon here; and there is. A blend of 50% Garnacha, 25% Carinena and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a nicely balanced wine with a lush texture; creating a wonderful mosaic of berry, cassis and spice flavors that gain complexity on the palate. Full bodied with firm tannins, finishing long with vanilla and oak accents.

And don’t miss their stunning Etim L’Esparver 2005, a deeply hued, herbaceously aromatic blend of 45% Garnacha, 45% Carinena and a bit each of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine displays purity of dense fruit on the palate, with gobs of rich blackberries, baked black cherry pie, classic minerality and a delightfully light, toasty oak spice weaving from start to finish. Complex and powerfully built to go the distance.

Interestingly 60% of Falset is part of Priorat and 40% is part of Montsant. Celler Capafons Osso is a family run company producing wines in the DO Montsant and DO Priorat wine regions from vineyards that are many decades old. (Their Mas de Masos from the Priorat was previously highlighted in this article). Never to be forgotten is the jeep tour up the steep incline of Celler Capafons Osso vineyards in the DO Montsant in Falset, that top out at 650 meters. Hanging on for dear life and surviving the adventurous bumpy ride, we appreciated the lay of the land and the passion of the family, along with the few stops along the way to see, smell and feel the essence of the terrior.

The soils in the Montsant vineyards are primarily made of stone, gravel and slate on decomposed granite, offering good drainage, and the climate is influenced by the humid wind from the Mediterranean. Their 2004 Masia Esplanes, a blend of 35% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon; 15% Carinena, 10% Garnacha and 10% Syrah, from the DO Montsant opens with earthy aromas and fills the palate with tasty blueberry and wild berry notes, coupled nicely with spicy, earthy accents.

Celler Dosterras: From vines up to 100 year old comes rich and pure 100% Garnacha. The Dosterras 2005 boasts intense aromas of violets and blackberries. Upon entry, the intense berry fruit laced with spicy notes is powerful, yet elegant and smooth as silk. Approachable today but the tannin structure suggests it will age gracefully for a good number of years. The 2006 vintage is a bit more restrained on the nose; but the entry shows more ripeness and a lush, weighty texture, with dark fruit and a hint of earth and licorice adding complexity on mid palate. Nice oak integration and undertones of minerality on the finish cap it off nicely. A complex wine with plenty of tannins promises a long life with this vintage, as well. Beautiful!

CONCA DE BARBERA

Conca de Barbera is a Catalonian region in the northern part of the province of Tarragona. It became a wine Designation of Origin (DO) in November 1985, but it’s wine history dates back many centuries (cultivation of grapevines here became very important in the Middle Ages). The climate is best described as a transition between the coastal, softer climate typical of Tarragona; and the colder more rigid cold winter and hot summer climate typical of the inland Lerida region. Soils are calcareous, with a good deal of limestone and clay and a bedrock of red sandstone. Near the Francoli and Anguera rivers, deeper more fertile soils are found; and slate soil (llicorella) is dominate in the southwest corner of the county. White and rose wines compose a good percentage of the wines produced in this region; including white varieties of Macabeo and Parellada, and also grown are the more recently introduced varieties of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The red grape Trepat, a native variety from Conca de Barbera, is a vigorous, thick skinned grape which is grown exclusively in this region. Cava, rose and red wines are made from this indigenous grape. Tempranillo and Garnacha make up the highest percentage of red wine in Conca de Barbera, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot also gaining some recognition. Favorites tasted from this region are highlighted below.

Portell Vins & Caves 2007 Trepat Rose displays a crystal clear, pale pink hue, and a pleasantly fruity nose follow by flavors of strawberry nectar and cranberries. Vinified dry, it is very uplifted on the palate, thirst quenching, and refreshing.

The Celler Rosa Maria Torres vineyards here date back 100 years. Their Red Vinya Plans Cabernet Sauvignon, with aromas of wild blackberry and oak in the nose, is powerfully built. The expansive palate, full of dark forest berries, is quite meaty and full bodied. The toasty oak carries through from beginning to end; wonderfully constructed wine.

A spicy red wine made from 50 year old Trepat vines comes from Celler Carles Andreu. Their 2006 vintage Trepat begins with spice-tinged earthy aromas, and surrounding the red cherry fruit on mid palate are a plethora of spice components including anise, cloves and cinnamon. Medium bodied and very nicely balanced, with a clean gratifying finish.

The Miguel Torres family purchased the Castell de Milmanda in the Poblet valley in the late 1970’s (the history of vineyards here go back centuries). A tasting of different vintages of their Milmanda (100% Chardonnay) and Grans Muralles (a blend of Monastrell, Garnacha, Carinena, Garro and Samso) displayed the care and dedication to the vineyards and winemaking practices that are consistent with Torres properties in many regions around the globe.

The 2006 Milmanda showcases aromatics of ripe tropical fruits and oak notes. On the palate the pineapple, melon and coconut flavors flourish, with cinnamon spice and flinty stone undertones and a dash of oak rounding out the rich and generous mouth feel. A well balanced. beautifully made Chardonnay. The 2003 Milmanda with a few more years in the bottle reflected the aging nicely, with honey and sherry-like flavors subtly toning down the more forward, ripe fruit showing in the 2006 vintage.

The 2002 Grans Muralles, made primarily of Garnacha and Monastrell, opens with dark berry fruit aromas which continue seamlessly on the palate; interplaying nice1y with the meatiness and pepper spice, toasty oak notes and minerality (reflecting the llicorella rocky soil) on the palate. An exotic and well built wine with firm tannins. The 2001 displayed similar posture; a bit more expressive right now, quite lush and rich with jammy fruit and spice at the core, surrounded by stone and minerality characteristics.

Celler Mas Foraster, situated in Montblanc, within the DO Conca de Barbera, is an effort that goes back three generations. The Foraster family, who has cultivated vineyards for more than 150 years; just recently released their first white wine; Josep Foraster Blanc Seleccio 2007; and it’s a beauty. Boasting a brilliant hue, and citrus fruit on the nose; this fresh, well crafted wine is made of 40% Garnacha Blanca, 30% Macabeo and 30% Chardonnay. Bright grapefruit and lemon notes on the entry are a pretty complement to the round stone fruit creaminess and dash of oak on mid palate; finishes brightly. The Josep Foraster Seleccio 2004 red wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo. From the glass wafts spicy aromatics with leather notes, followed by layers of olive, bell pepper, and dark red and black currant flavors at the core. Very nicely balanced, with toasty oak and spice persisting through the long, memorable finish.

Bodegas Concavins in Montblanc originally gained notoriety in international markets but is now becoming a more locally know winery of the DO Conca de Barbera. Their Clos Mont-Blanc Xipella Blanc 2006, a blend of 60% Macabeo and 40% Parellada shows off a gleaming pale yellow-green hue, and plenty of minerality in the nose. The crisp, tantalizing citrus notes expand on the palate, displaying mouth watering zesty tangerine and lemon-lime flavors and a soft hint of earthiness. Fresh, clean finish too.

Their Clos Mont-Blanc Masia Les Comes 2002 is a savory blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. On the nose, forest floor and herbal notes are prominent. The palate is full of Asian spice and dried currants, with an intriguing thread of oak and smokiness adding complexity.

TERRA ALTA

Winemaking in the DO Terra Alta goes back thousands of years, but the recognition as a designation of origin came in 1972, and the first regulation along with its Regulator Council was passed in 1982. This is the furthest southwestern wine producing region in Catalonia. Clay, loam and sandy soils exist here, which are poor in organic content and retain water very well. The climate in Terra Alta ranges from quite hot and dry in the summer, to extremely cold in the winter. Red Wine varieties include Garnacha Negra, Garnacha Peluda, Syrah, Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon; and white varietals include Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Moscatell and Parellada. Nice examples representative of this region include:

Hereus Caterra 2007 Garnacha Blanca: Fresh aromas full of florality and citrus fruit greet the nose; and focused lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors are more than moderate on the palate. The relatively high alcohol at 15.5% adds to the intensity; and tannins are broad and full. This wine is unoaked, preserving the fresh fruity characteristics of the variety.

Celler Batea Vallmajor 2007: This playfully expressive blend of Garnacha Blanca and Moscatell opens with aromas of minerality alongside floral notes. It has a pretty mouth feel and is nicely balanced on the palate with citrus and lime peel at the core. Clearly the pleasing fruit is the center of attention here and it’s delightfully quaffable. Their L’Aube 2005 blend of Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache releases aromas of blueberry and wild cherry that pull you right into the glass; and it sings on the palate with striking components of chocolate, cherry, raspberry and a whiff of tobacco. Firm tannins and just the right amount of oak lead to a long, lingering finish.

Celler Xavier Clua Coma: A large part of their vineyards are relatively old vines (30-40 years), which result in good depth of flavors like their well crafted Millenium 2005, a blend of Garnacha Negra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Ripe dark fruit aromas soar from the glass, dense dark fruit sprinkled with anise and spice continues on the palate. Good oak integration and tannins galore. This wine should age well, with tannins relaxing and softening through the years. Also impressive is their Mas d’en Pol 2007: a blend of 65% Garnacha Blanca, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscatell. A charming elixir that captures fresh, fruity aromas of the variety and grows more complex with layers of citrus and herbal notes expanding on the palate. Smooth textured and artfully balanced.

Aricola Sant Josep’s Llagrimes de Tardor Seleccio 2004: A full throttle Samso (Carinena) from vineyards that were planted more than 80 years ago. Inviting chocolate and ripe berries on the nose lead to a complex, nicely constructed wine. Smooth and well orchestrated on the palate with layers of wild berry, cocoa, and anise spice. Pure and clean with firm, velvety tannins; another good wine to age a few years; if you can wait!

The expressive century old vines and terroir in Tarragona mesh together like a finely tuned orchestra, wonderfully reflecting intensity, quality, and a “spot on” sense of place. In the glass, these factors culminate in remarkable wines that not only deserve notice, but are worthy of being praised among the best.

New Mexico Wines with Merit

New Mexico wines, Tasting Notes 3 Comments

You may have been to New Mexico to enjoy their annual International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta held in Albuquerque every fall; or perhaps to trek over to the artist haven of Santa Fe, or hike the trails of Carlsbad Caverns National Park;  but have you ventured into their wine world?   Yes, really!  The world of wine is growing here and deserves to be recognized.  In the past, my experience with New Mexico wines was limited to the beautiful sparkling wines made there by Gruet Winery, which I found years ago to be impressive at first sip; and have remained high on my list for several years.  I have since had the opportunity to discover noteworthy still wines in this less touted U.S. wine region.

Milagro Vineyards and Winery tucked in the village of Corrales, just a 30 minute drive from the downtown Albuquerque, is one you should NOT miss.  Owned by Rick and Mitzi Hobson, Milagro Vineyards and Winery evolved from their desire to make the best wine from traditional vinifera grapes grown in New Mexico.   Vineyards at Milagro were originally planted in 1985.  This boutique winery produces varieties including Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Small quantities of these wines are handcrafted and aged in French oak, and Rick’s passion and talent as a winemaker glow brightly.

Milagro Vineyards

Photo:  Winemaker/Owner Rick Hobson and guests

The Hobson’s are also very animal friendly, and when you visit Milagro you will undoubtedly be greeted by their cute and friendly Boston Terriers.  They also take in and care for pot belly pigs (you will see tuxedo clad Wilbur pictured on their wine label).   Their newly opened wine tasting room is a special reflection of Rick and Mitzi, their wines and their four legged friends.  Their wine glass rack hanging in the tasting room was creatively made out of wine barrel staves by their neighbor John, who also helps out at the winery; and stunning images of their vineyards by local photographer Chuck Leopold grace the walls painted in soothing earth tones.  It’s a warm and friendly room overlooking picturesque vineyards and gardens; made even more special by Rick’s wonderfully crafted wines.  Speaking of the wines, here’s a snapshot of my favorites from Milagro:

2006 Chardonnay:  Toasty, buttery aromas leap from the glass.  A creamy texture full of delectable ripe pear and apple flavors layered with pretty oak notes and crisp acidity expand on the palate; a handsomely structured wine.  Rick treats this Chardonnay with no ML (malolactic fermentation), preserving the full character of the fruit; and his decision to age on the lees adds plenty of depth.  The long, lingering finish is lip-smackingly delicious.

2005 Old Church Road Vineyard Select Zinfandel:  Fresh berry aromas lure you in; and explode with dark berry and spiciness on the palate - wow.  Rick explains that he cuts back to one cluster per shoot for this vineyard select Zin and the focused fruit simply shines.  It is aged for 12 months in new oak barrels (Seguin-Moreau)  and then moved into neutral barrels prior to bottling.  The attractive oak integration, delightful vanilla accents and firm tannins frame the lush berry fruit and spice components; this one drinks well now and should also age divinely.

2005 Merlot: Beautifully hued,  this 21 month French oak aged Merlot opens with dark cherry, clove and pie spice aromas, and unfolds in the mouth with yummy layers of black cherry, ripe blackberry, vanilla and a delicate thread of earthiness.  Elegant with silky tannins and showcasing a purity of fruit, this Merlot, which is refined and exceedingly pleasing on the palate, crescendos with a long, persistent finish.

They also make a red table wine; Corrales Red.  This is a lovely blend that Rick bottles each year, and I look forward to tasting the next release.  To experience Milagro’s wines and new tasting room for yourself, give them a call at 505 898-3998 to set up a visit.  They are located at 985 West Ella in Corrales.

Anasazi Fields Winery in Placitas is quite unique in its production of apricot, plum, cranberry, blueberry, wild cherry and other fruit based wines.  What’s really different here is their fruit wines are bone dry.  Often when one thinks of fruit wine, sweet comes to mind; but not at Anasazi.  Vintner Jim Fish also has been producing a more traditional wine from Syrah grapes; and additionally blends traditional grapes with other fruits for unique blends.  All Jim’s wines are oak aged.

Anasazi’s deeply flavored 1995 Apricot wine, made of fruit from ONE apricot tree, is a harmonious meshing of dried apricot, apple juice and a dollop of oak from entry through the long finish.  Pair this with Stilton cheese blended with apricot bits and a handful of roasted walnuts for a match made in heaven.

A multi-year tasting of Anasazi’s Syrah was an adventure!  He sometimes blends in other grapes, including Black Malvasia and Gamay into the Syrah, and each displays a personality of its own.  The 2005 is full of concentrated ripe fruit. Blackberry syrup flavors are focused on mid palate, framed with spice notes.  The 2004 was considerably more rustic, with raisiny characteristics and a definite earthiness.  The 2003 opens with fruity, peppery aromas and enters the mouth with juicy dark berry, spicy pepper and dusty notes.  Nicely balanced with a clean finish.  The 2002 has a bright fruit aroma with a dash of oak in the nose.  It boasts a viscous texture, expressive fruit and forest floor nuances, and that spicy pepper prevails on the palate with this vintage as well.  The 2001 vintage was a conundrum to my palate; both sweet and tart, and exceedingly ripe.  The 2000 vintage, which is 100% Syrah; was a jammy, full bodied powerhouse of a Syrah with a pleasant earthy quality.  The pretty bright fruit is holding exceptionally well for this 8 year old wine.  Anasazi Fields Winery is located at 26 Camino de Los Pueblitos Road in Placitas (a 40 minute drive from Albuquerque), and opens to visitors at 12 noon on weekends; or you may call to make an appointment at 505 867-3062.

My impressions here convince me once again that wines deserving merit can be and are being made throughout many U.S. regions; and what fun it is to discover them!

It’s TIME for Temecula Valley Wines

Temecula Valley, Tasting Notes No Comments

As a judge at the 2008 Temecula Valley Wine Society’s annual competition, I was pleasantly surprised by the number of remarkable wines being produced there. Temecula Valley wineries have come a long way since the nasty glassy-winged sharpshooter wreaked havoc through this California wine growing region in the late 90’s. I’m sure I am just one of many who are more than happy for the dedicated grape growers, winemakers and winery owners throughout this region who have not only persevered and bounced back, but are producing award winning wines worthy of praise … And for the satisfied consumers who are clearly enjoying the delectable fruits of their labor.

Here is a snapshot of my favorites from the competition:

South Coast Winery, Carter Estate Vineyards 2007 Gewurztraminer:  Tantalizing spicy aromatics lead to juicy mouthful of baked fresh apple laced with just enough residual sugar; delightfully balanced and uplifting on the palate and an ever-so-pleasing finish. GOLD MEDAL

Wilson Creek Winery 2007 Muscat:  Fragrant honeysuckle and floral notes waft from the glass, focused bright citrus flavors on the palate with beautiful acidity from start to finish.SILVER MEDAL (but clearly GOLD in my book.)

Callaway Vineyard & Winery Sweet Nancy NV Late Harvest  Chenin Blanc:  Floral aromas lead to a lush, rich and creamy texture full of caramel and honey notes wrapped delectably around sweet pears at the core. GOLD MEDAL

South Coast Winery NV Sparkling Syrah Ruby Cuvee:  Fragrant expression of syrah right from the start with berry notes in the nose, clean and pure fruit and a dash of sweetness on the palate, refreshingly delicious. GOLD MEDAL, Best of Class Sparkling

South Coast Winery 2007 Sans Chene Chardonnay:  This unoaked Chardonnay opens with gobs of tropical fruit in the nose. Crisp and elegant on the palate, with juicy tropical fruit flavors and a touch of lemon weaving throughout. Delicate, well balanced and lovely; awarded a SILVER MEDAL; but my vote was vociferously GOLD

South Coast 2007 Roussane:  The fresh, bright aromatics promise more, and this Roussane really delivers the goods. Fruit and spice woven together in a refined package with a pleasing touch of herbs and plenty of acidity to thrill your taste buds. GOLD MEDAL

South Coast Winery 2007 GVR White Proprietary Blend:   An artfully crafted blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Viognier; hints of peach on the nose lead to a cornucopia of lemon, pear and stone fruit flavors melding together deliciously. GOLD MEDAL and Tied for Best of Class, White Wine

South Coast Winery 2007 Semillon:   Opens with inviting aromatics and a rich, unctuous entry.  Juicy citrus fruit at the core laced with alluring spice notes, and smooth as silk on the palate; this varietally distinct Semillon boasts a memorable finish.  GOLD MEDAL and Tied for Best of Class, White Wine

La Cereza Winery 2007 Pinot Grigio:  One whiff of this fresh lemon lime aromas and you are hooked on this bright, crisp and refreshing Pinot Grigio; a beautiful sipper for relaxing hot summer days.  GOLD MEDAL

Falkner Winery 2007 Riesling:    Citrus blossom aromas followed by a mouthful of juicy pears; this Riesling is beautifully balanced with generous fruit and pleasing acidity, and delicate flavors that linger through the lengthy finish.  GOLD MEDAL

South Coast Winery 2007 Grenache Rose:  The sparkling raspberry hue grabs your attention;  and inviting aromatics pull you in further into the glass.  Delightfully refreshing on the palate with delicate flavors of raspberry, pomegranate and a dash of citrus peel. GOLD MEDAL and Best of Class Rose

Stuart Cellars Vineyard & Winery 2005 Long Valley Red Meritage:   Pretty berry and cassis aromas continue to carry seamlessly on the palate, with a hint of earth and oak notes adding complexity.  An impressively structured Meritage with plenty of depth and character.  GOLD MEDAL and Tied for Best of Class, Red Wine

Thornton Winery 2005 Cabernet-Merlot Proprietary Red Blend:  A full bodied blend of Cabernet and Merlot; this well crafted wine opens with enticing fruity aromas followed by ripe wild berry and herbal flavors that dominate the palate.  Firmly structured with nicely integrated tannins.  GOLD MEDAL and Tied for Best of Class, Red Wine

South Coast Winery Wild Horse Peak Vineyards 2006 Petite Syrah:   Full throttle rendition of this ageworthy varietal.  Dense dark berry fruit aromas and vanilla notes greet the nose. Juicy blackberry flavors richly coat the palate, with expressive spice notes alongside.  Firm tannins suggest a long life; if you can wait!   GOLD MEDAL

Mount Palomar Winery NV Solera Cream Sherry:   Heavenly expressive aromatics and a velvety texture with flavors of creamy pralines and caramelized nuts dance across the palate.  A gloriously rich and satisfying finish leaves you wanting more!  GOLD MEDAL and Best of Competition SWEEPSTAKES winner

DO YOURSELF A FAVOR; saunter through the heart and soul of the Temecula Valley Wine Region and see for yourself; you’ll be glad you did.

A Delightful, Delicious Stroll through Diageo’s Wine World

Diageo's Wine World, Tasting Notes No Comments

Whether you are seeking a high end special occasion wine, a refreshing summer sipper, or a good value bottle, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines can fit the bill.  Their ever expanding portfolio continues to gain accolades with their latest purchase of Rosenblum Cellars; who’s award winning wines are numerous, including vineyard designated Zinfandels, Syrahs and Petite Sirahs from various appellations. 

 I had the pleasure of tasting many of Diageo’s offerings recently and also chatted with a few of the winemakers to gain their impressions of current releases and how the newest vintage is progressing along.  My questions were met with enthusiastic responses that reflected both pride and careful attention to vineyard practices, the all important fruit, and the winemakers’ decisions each step of the way toward the final masterpiece.  Here is a snapshot of several of my favorites from the Diageo wine portfolio: 

  Edna Valley Vineyards 2005 Paragon Vineyard Chardonnay:  Notes of toasty oak, citrus and fresh juicy peaches rise from the glass.  Round and full in the mouth with peach and pear flavors layered with subtle vanilla, butterscotch and nutmeg accents; balanced with a lingering finish.  Winemaker Harry Hanson also crafted a beautiful 2005 Reserve Chardonnay made from fruit that saw a longer hang time in the vineyard.  Exquisitely structure, creamy and focused with stone fruit at the core, the essence of French oak nicely integrated,  and a pleasing dollop of spice adding complexity.   

 Jade Mountain 2005 Paras Vineyard Viognier:  Glorious honeysuckle aromas and a hint of oak  lead to a lovely explosion of ripe peaches and mandarin oranges coating the palate; and just the right amount of residual sugar.  Very well crafted example of this fragrant varietal. 

 Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2006 Snipes Vineyard Gewurztraminer:  From Washington state; this expressive wine opens with aromas of spice and sweet-scented lilacs.  Clean and pure on the palate with a succulent nectarine focus at the core, surrounded by spice and florality; and a satisfying finish.

Acacia 2005 Winery Lake Vineyard Chardonnay:  Satisfying toasty oak and butter cookie in the nose.  Rich, expansive and mouth filling on the palate, with caramel apple and ripe pear flavors entwined with alluring spices.  Artfully balanced with a nice level of acidity.

Provenance 2007 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc:  Delightfully herbal and floral in the nose, with zesty lemon lime and bright grapefruit on the palate.  Minerality and racy acidity screams “food wine”!  This beauty will pair with oysters or any shellfish dish; it’s creaminess comes forward when paired with goat cheese too.

Beaulieu Vineyard 2005 Carneros Napa Chardonnay:  From the Napa side of Carneros, this crisp, apple focused Chardonnay is a beauty.  With a generous thread of minerality alongside bright fruit and a dash of oak, it boasts plenty of acidity and length.   

Beaulieu Vineyard 2004 Tapestry:  This blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec is enticingly aromatic and  irresistible.  The entry through mid palate is pure cassis and dark cherry/berry flavors cloaked attractively in toasty oak; a harmonious blend with a lasting finish. 

Beaulieu 2004 Georges De Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon:  Dark, brooding fruit aromatics open to an expansive burst of cassis, black cherry, black currant and a dose of tobacco which meld together seamlessly and broaden beautifully on the palate.  Full bodied and complex with well integrated tannins, finishes memorably with alluring oak notes.

Moon Mountain 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon:  Abundantly fruited in the nose with hints of cocoa and coffee bean,  this Cab is rich and ever so smooth on the palate with velvety tannins and a beautiful purity of blackberry and blueberry fruit from entry to the lengthy finish.    

Provenance 2005 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon:    Winemaker Tom Rinaldi does it again with a powerhouse Cabernet from Napa’s Rutherford appellation.  This darkly hued vintage is full of warm dark berry pie and spicy aromas, unveiling layer upon layer of black cherry, cassis, tobacco and earthiness on the mouth filling mid palate.   Beautifully structured with plenty of gutsy tannins suggesting a long life. 

Acacia 2005 Lone Tree Vineyard, Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir:  Earthy, aromatic truffle notes  up front are just a precursor for the full structured blossoming black cherry, cola and licorice flavors that weave enticingly on mid palate.  Perfectly balance with beautiful acidity and an elegant finish.

 Orogeny 2006 Fox Den Vineyard, Green Valley Pinot Noir:  Wow, juicy cherry and strawberry aromas with a pleasing thread of earthiness open way to delightful cherry cola and ginger spice flavors that are both ethereal and plentiful on the palate.   Bright and pretty with silky tannins and plenty of length.

Hewitt 2004 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon:  The dark inky hue and expressive blackberry fruit with dusty earth notes set the stage.  The lush chocolate scented fruit entwined with hints of spice and oak is rich and complex now, and this intensely structured Cabernet should unfold beautifully through the years. 

 Rosenblum Cellars 2005 Harris Kratka Vineyard Alexander Valley Zinfandel:  Tempting aromas of dense dark cherries draw you in, and stay focused on the palate with jammy berry, cherry and juicy plums melding deliciously alongside accents of licorice and spice to round out the flavors.  Memorable finish, too!

Albeit Expensive, Oakville Appellation Cabernets Rock!

Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Tasting Notes No Comments

Dalla Valle 2004 ($150) - 97 pts
Inviting aromatics, earthy and spicy with just the right suggestion of fruit, beautiful saturation, gorgeous silky, supple texture, full and mouth filling on the palate, complex with perfectly integrated tannins and a forever finish.

Gargiulo 2005 OVX ($200) - 95 pts
Intense coffee bean on the nose, opens with tobacco and dark berry on the palate, plenty to enjoy on mid palate with spiciness, and perfectly balanced fruit and acidity. Firm tannins to carry this gem through the years.

Fruto 2005 ($200) - 94 pts
Enticing earthy aromas lead to well balanced dark fruit, cassis and earthy notes on mid palate, intense, rich and full bodied with tannins galore, memorable finish.

Harlan Estate 2004 ($495) - 94 pts
Tart cherry nose, exceedingly earthy, plenty of cassis and spicy flavors upon entry that persist broadly and expansively on the palate, complex with firm tannins, very nicely balanced.

Bond 2004 St Eden ($190) - 92 pts
Deep dark fruity aromas, currant and cassis focused on palate, lively, spicy, powerful and balanced, plenty of tannins to go the distance.

Hoopes Vineyard 2005 (~$65) - 92 pts
Dense, dark and elegant all at the same time; new French oak was ever so evident. Pretty oak notes from start to finish, earth forward with dark cherry and spice notes.

Far Niente 2005 ($125) - 92 pts
Licorice and restrained dark berry in nose, beautifully structured, licorice and tobacco thread through the palate with black currant at the core, beautifully structured.

Gargiulo 2005 Money Road Ranch Cab ($85) - 92 pts
Minty notes on the nose, bright black and red fruit surrounded by toasty oak, lifted on the palate, drinking beautifully now.

Rudd 2005 Proprietary Red ($125) - 91 pts
Brooding dark fruit aromas, deep and chewy currant/cassis on the palate, nice saturation, toasty accents and a lingering finish.

Kelleher 2004 Brix Vineyard ($75) - 91 pts
Expressive earthy, wild berry aromas, ever so smooth on the palate, plenty of tannins, lots of weight without feeling heavy on the palate; pleasing finish.

Mondavi 2005 Oakville Reserve (~$125) - 91 pts
Inviting notes of tobacco and dried fruit in the nose, big and rich dense plum on the palate, mouth-filling with well integrated tannins.

Zesty Zinfandels!

Zinfandel, Tasting Notes No Comments

In late January 2008, hundreds of producers and advocates of America’s sweetheart grape - Zinfandel, gathered at the Zinfandel Advocate and Producers annual event at Fort Mason in San Francisco, to savor a plethora of juicy, jammy Zinfandels. Smiles full of purple stained teeth and exclamations of “WOW”, “where can I find this wine”, and “can it possibly get any better” told the tale of a day well enjoyed, and a varietal so coveted! Zinfandel, with roots from Croatia; is widely planted and produced in California, and has a following that grows immeasurably from year to year.

After several hours of sniffing, sipping, and spitting more than a hundred wines; here are my top”favorite fifteen” Zins at this year’s ZAP:

St. Amant 2006 Mohr Fry Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi ($18)
Deep, dark brooding fruit in the nose; bursts onto the palate with plenty of zing! This Zinfandel is full of rich, concentrated blackberry and boysenberry fruit and a generous dollop of spice. Rich and chewy with a firm texture and well balanced tannins; and love the purity of fruit.

C G d’Arie 2005 Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley ($25)
Opens with enticing aromas of licorice and pepper spices, handsomely followed by copious dark blackberry and boysenberry fruit and a touch of tobacco on mid palate. A stylish Zinfandel with the acidity and nicely ripened fruit perfectly balanced. Well crafted with smooth, refined tannins. Finishes with a spicy flair.

Kuleto Estate 2005 Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($39)
The beautifully peppery, concentrated sweet berry fruit aromas are addictive, and the lush, full entry with layers of blackberry, bing cherry and spicy elements hold firmly through mid palate. Well structured with an incredibly long finish.

Storybook Mountain Vineyards 2005 Antaeus Zinfandel Blend, Napa Valley ($40)
Pretty crimson hue. A bit restrained in the nose; but after aeration opens fully to pure cherry, cassis and boysenberry fruit, which nestled alongside spice and oaky vanilla notes coats the mouth with gusto! With 27% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, this wine is well structured with firm tannins and should age with power and grace.

Van Ruiten Family Winery 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi ($23)
Assertive spicy, pungent, fruity aromatics grab your interest decisively! Here’s a zin that blossom fully on the palate with layer upon layer of juicy berries, spices and a rich thread of vanilla. Lush and focused with a lasting finish.

Rubicon Estate Edizione Pennino 2005 Zinfandel, Rutherford - Napa Valley ($40)
Inviting candied berries in the nose, followed by a rich lush entry with mouth filling black raspberry, pepper and a hint of licorice that meld seamlessly. Perfect oak integration and oh so refined; one of the most elegant zins I’ve tasted.

Marr Cellars 2005 Mattern Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($22)
Alluring spicy, earthy, anise aromas grab your attention; this zinfandel opens with tons of wild berries sprinkled with cinnamon on the palate. It continues to build intensely, climaxing with bright berry and spicy vanilla flavors and finishes long and memorably.

Starry Night 2005 Tom Feeney Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($28)
This deeply hued zinfandel boasts enticing pepper and licorice aromas. A bright burst of juicy berry and cherry flavors upon entry continues broadening on the palate. Beautifully balanced, with rich fruit surrounded by a generous dose of spice, and pretty oak notes. Ends with a finish that lasts forever.

Acorn 2005 Heritage Vines Alegria Vineyards Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($35)
Roasted coffee bean and dark berry aromas waft pleasantly from the glass. Lush and full on mid palate, with juicy black plum and blackberry flavors layered with cinnamon spice and a dollop of black pepper. Lovely texture, velvety tannins and nicely integrated oak. The 10% Alicante Bouschet and 10% Petite Sirah blended in add to its complexity.

Mara Reserve 2005 Dolinsek Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($45)
Buckets full of ripe blackberries and anise notes rise boldly from the glass, leading to a mouthful of rich, lush fruit and spice, nice tactility and just the right amount of acidity as well. Gobs of goodness in a glass! Plenty of depth and tannins suggest good ageability, too - if you can wait.

Macchia 2006 Linsteadt Vineyard Amador County “Adventurous” Zinfandel ($26)
Spices galore, from enticing cinnamon to all spice and nutmeg, jump out of the glass and provide the framework for the ripe, decadent mouthful of jammy dark berries at the core. A monster sized Zin at 16.1% alcohol, but very well balanced.

Grgich Hills 2004 Miljenko’s Old Vines Zinfandel Estate, Napa Valley ($69)
Inky, dark hue coats the glass, promising plenty; and it delivers! Vanilla and spice aromatics lead to powerfully concentrated ripe blackberry compote flavors that are broad and expansive on the palate, with accents of spice throughout. Nicely structured, and ends with a long, lingering finish.

Rosenblum 2006 Maggie’s Reserve, Sonoma Valley ($45)
Captivating spices and a dash of cocoa powder jump from the glass, and once the velvety elixir hits the palate you know you are in ZIN land! Bright, ripe bing cherry, wild berry and blackberry flavors explode in the mouth, and enliven the taste buds with enticing spicy clove notes and a hint of licorice. A complex zinfandel with plenty of depth.

Opolo Vineyards 2006 Mountain Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($26)
With a bit of aeration, a gorgeous fruit bomb explodes on the palate! A big, bold zinfandel with jammy blackberry and succulent black raspberry flavors and dash of pepper melding harmoniously with layers of baking spice and creamy vanilla accents. Exceedingly graceful given it’s powerful 16.5% alcohol level.

Klinker Brick 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi ($17)
Mouthwatering aromas, full of fresh berries accentuated by a touch of creme de menthe, charm you into the glass. Ripe juicy fruit takes center stage on the palate. Lush and round in the mouth, reminiscent of warm berry pie with vanilla bean accents leading to a pretty, silky finish.

Don’t delay, go out and seek your favorite Zin’s today!

Amador County Wineries - Gems Uncovered!

Amador County, Tasting Notes 1 Comment

A pleasant, sunny drive through the lush, picturesque hillsides of the Sierra Foothill wine region in Amador County led to the discovery of a plethora of tasty and memorable wine gems during the Amador Vintners’ Association “Behind the Cellar Door” annual wine celebration this month. Here is a snapshot of some of my favorites:

Bray Vineyards

2007 Verdelho: Spicy captivating aromas lead to lively crisp, citrus flavors upon entry; lime and lemon zest galore! Fills out on mid palate with a pretty texture, plenty of citrus fruit, a touch of pear, and impressive bright acidity - perfectly balanced! Fabulous paired with lemon chicken!

2005 Petite Sirah: Deep and dark, black as midnight in the center of the glass with a flashy crimson rim; this bold PS opens with intense aromatics chock full of dark juicy fruit. Focused ripe blackberry on the palate with alluring chocolate mint accents, velvety tanins and a finish that goes on and on! Marries well with a tempting dish of roasted lamb shanks and cannellini beans.

2005 Tempranillo: Delightfully fruity on the nose, with jammy raspberry taking center stage on the palate, accented with a pleasing touch of vanilla. Approachable, medium bodied wine with gentle tanins and oh so easy to quaff, this Tempranillo is nicely balanced and drinks beautifully now! Serve with a tasty seafood cioppino.

2005 Vinho Tinto (Lodi): Earthy old world essence rises from the glass and leads to layers of dusty forest floor, leather notes and mushroom flavors that surround a wild berry core on mid palate. Continues building with nicely integrated oak and pretty dried cherry accents, and boasts an alluring, velvety texture. Great paired with grilled sausages and strong flavored cheeses.

C.G.DiArie Vineyard and Winery

2006 Barbera: Inviting cocoa aromatics lift from the glass, followed by generous ripe bing cherry and succulent plum flavors that fill out the mouth richly and fully. Balanced with a good bit of acidity, this is a well crafted wine with toasty oak and a shot of vanilla adding complexity. Serve with a strip steak with plum reduction sauce - yum!

2004 Syrah “Southern Exposure” (Fairplay): Big, meaty and powerful, this Syrah opens with chocolatey aromas and a hint of mint that blend harmoniously with a cornucopia of dark plummy, brooding black fruit flavors, tobacco and a ton of spice on the palate. Complexity and firm tanins suggest good ageability. Pair with meaty, spice-laced short ribs for a winning combination!

2005 Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley): Wafting from the glass are jammy blackberry and boysenberry fruits flavors that dominate the aroma and carry through on the palate. A generous twist of mixed red/black/white pepper spice blend weaves in and out of the lush fruitiness. Nice silky tanins, too. Serve with spicy meatballs!

2005 Sierra Legend (Shenandoah Valley): Wow, truly amazing blend of Syrah (35%), Primitivo (25%), Cab Sauv (20%) and Cab Franc (20%). Meaty nose followed by luscious dark berries bursting onto the palate. Incredibly rich mouth feel; focused black currant and blackberry flavors and provocative spiciness meld together seamlessly. Full bodied, balanced and complex; absolutely worth joining the wine club for! Pair with a sizzling steak hot off the grill.

Sobon Estate

2006 Cougar Hill Amador County Zinfandel: Dense ruby hue, and all about beautifully ripe blackberries in the nose. From beginning to end, a lush mouthful of rich jammy blackberry and black cherry explodes on the palate, with a delicious accent of anise highlighting the black fruits. Full bodied with nice purity of fruit and a lingering finish. Serve with a juicy grilled burger dressed with onions reduced in zinfandel!

More Powerhouse Petite Sirahs

Petite Sirah, Tasting Notes No Comments

Epiphany 2004 Petite Sirah, Rodney’s Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley
Essence of warm blackberry pie with nutmeg and all spice accents captivate the nose and carry richly through mid palate. Beautifully structured, with great depth and purity of fruit that deservedly command full attention. Ends with a touch of vanilla and spice on the persistent finish. Delicious with a spicy lamb ragout served over savory polenta.

Miro 2005 Petite Sirah, Sommers Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley
Darkly hued, with stunning aromas of concentrated berries, peppery spice and a hint of leather wafting from the glass. Explosion of juicy black plums and crushed blueberries take center stage on the palate, surrounded by spice and mineral notes. Powerful fruit and firm tannins are nicely balanced and coat the mouth fully. A complex, ageworthy wine that will go the distance. Pair with a sizzling steak diane!

Parducci 2004 True Grit Petite Sirah, Mendocino County
Big, bold and hearty; just like a Petite Sirah should be. Aromas of wild blackberries and vanilla lead to a mouthful of dark juicy plums accented by a glorious crown of black pepper and anise. Plump, rich texture shows nicely after aeration, rounding out the edges of this powerhouse petite sirah. Serve with a roasted filet mignon with Roquefort sauce.

Ursa 2004 Petite Sirah, El Dorado
Aromas of succulent, jammy blackberry fruit and lip-smacking grape candy lure you into the glass. Gobs of juicy blackberry and boysenberry flavors and a dash of spearmint command full attention on mid palate. Spice notes add complexity to this beautifully structured wine that lingers seductively on the finish. Serve with herb encrusted lamb and a fresh mint sauce.

Ursa Vineyards 2004 Vineyard Blend Petite Sirah
Crushed blackberries and plenty of spice greet the nose invitingly. A luscious mouthful of concentrated plums and mixed red and black fruit explodes on the palate and the intensity continues throughout. With just the right touch of oak, this petite sirah drinks beautifully now; yet shows plenty of structure and tannins to go the distance. Pair with roasted venison with plum sauce - heavenly!

Mounts 2005 Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley
Dark inky hue, with deep, pleasing aromas of warm mixed berry compote and herb scented vanilla notes. Love the purity of fruit on mid palate! Blueberry and blackberry flavors galore, velvety tannins, with subtle spice and a hint of smokey tobacco adding complexity. Serve with lamb noisettes and a mixed berry compote.

39 Degrees 2005 Petite Sirah, Lake County
Dusty wild red berry aromas up front; soft and approachable with bright cherry and strawberry flavors and a hint of spice dancing on the palate; this petite sirah is nicely balanced with an elegance about it! Serve with a cherry stuffed pork tenderloin.

Potent & Powerful Petite Sirah!

Petite Sirah, Tasting Notes No Comments

Huge, monstrous, yet called petite? The only thing petite about this varietal is the size of the berry (about half the size of syrah berries!) Maybe you are not clear about the difference between petite sirah and syrah? Let me help solve the mystery! Petite Sirah (also called Durif) is the offspring of syrah. Petite Sirah’s two parents are syrah and peloursin.

I love this big bold varietal - it’s ripe fruit and spicy characteristics on the nose carry through with explosive flavors on the palate; and it is one of the most age-worthy wine varietals produced in the new world. It can be smooth and voluptuous on the palate, yet showcase big, firm tannins that give it such longevity. A balance of fruit and tannins is part of the secret of this amazing varietal. Below are a few gems I’ve recently tasted:

Bogle Merritt Island 2004 Reserve Petite Sirah
Opens with brilliantly focused blackberry and vanilla aromas leading to a smooth, abundantly satisfying entry. Lively spice notes frame layers of succulent blackberry, black raspberry and black currant flavors on mid palate. Nicely integrated oak with pretty vanilla notes, along with firm tannins, and plenty of structure and complexity suggest long term aging potential, if you can wait! If you can’t, pair this with robust short ribs with a Petite Sirah reduction sauce - Yum!

Bogle 2005 Petite Sirah, California
Fruit from Clarksburg and Lodi blend to create a pleasing palate of mixed berries from start to finish. Ripe, juicy black fruit dominate the core, with a hint of oak and a dollop of spice that add interest on the palate, make this is a friendly, approachable wine. Pair this Petite Sirah with lamb and vegetable kabobs sizzling hot off the grill!

Silkwood 2004 San Joaquin Petite Sirah
The enticing warm berry compote that lifts enticingly from the glass is a mere hint of the goodness to follow! Gobs of rich, jammy boysenberry with a subtle hint of anise coat the mouth gloriously, and the round creamy texture adds to the fullness and purity of fruit. Paired with grilled venison topped with a berry compote would be heavenly!

Robert Biale Vineyards 2004 Thomann Station Napa Valley Petite Sirah
Intense inky black purple hue gives you the first clue this is Petite Sirah. A prolific cornucopia of spices and hint of florality in the nose lead to concentrated blackberry and cassis on the palate with spices weaving throughout. Lush and full, with beautifully structured tannins that will live on for years and years. Pair with a big dish - a Cuban pulled pork with a Petite Sirah mojo sauce would be a delicious match!

Robert Biale Vineyards 2004 Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah
Deep, dark inky color with provocative, mysterious aromas. Once it hits your palate, the intense and chewy berry and leather notes prevail! Gorgeous viscosity - richly mouthfilling with copious dark berry flavors and a muscular structure - powerful. This will likely be another incredibly long lived wine! Pair with a slab of savory barbecued ribs - mmm mmm good!

Foppiano Vineyards 2004 Russian River Estate Petite Sirah
Inviting earthy, wild berry aromas promise a potent mouthful and this wine surely delivers! Rich and full with generous dark berry and peppery spices that tantalize the mid palate. Pleasing spice and earthiness carry throughout, with a nice dash of cocoa on the lingering finish. Persistent firm tannins - absolutely an age-worthy wine. Marry with a Petite Sirah doused mushroom ragout served over a spice-rubbed roast; scrumptious!

Langtry Estates Guenoc 2005 Lake County Petite Sirah
Vanilla and blackberry pie aromas lure you further into the glass, and a brilliant burst of concentrated berries with an anise accent enliven the palate. This wine boasts a rich and smooth texture with a black pepper kick on the finish, and velvety tannins tame the power. I enjoyed this wine with a few savory cheese selections including Maytag blue, extra sharp cheddar, Pecorino and Arina goat cheese; all worked deliciously!

Oak Grove 2005 California Reserve Petite Sirah
All about berries in the nose, this is a soft and fruity, easy to drink Petite Sirah with pleasant red berry and cherry notes and a sprinkle of spice that opens up on mid palate. Nicely balanced with a clean finish. Drink now with a burger hot off the grill!

Mettler Family Vineyards 2004 Petite Sirah
This darkly hued Petite Sirah from the Lodi appellation grabs your attention with dense blueberry and wild berry aromas laced with a hint of menthol. Complex, with cedar and herb notes that tiptoe through the robust plummy, ripe berry core. Plenty of power, yet this wine finishes elegantly. Serve with braised lamb shanks prepared with a splash of Petite Sirah of course!

Concannon 2004 Limited Release Central Coast Petite Sirah
Alluring aromatics of bright raspberry and black cherry blend harmoniously with vanilla, mixed spices and herbal tea notes on mid palate. Perfectly balanced with medium bodied tannins and a beautiful focus on purity of fruit. What a bargain at $14.oo. Paired with filet mignon prepared with a cognac, black pepper, raisin sauce - out of this world!

EOS 2004 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles
A pleasant earthiness along with concentrated blueberry and a touch of mint fill the nose. Tannins grab hold upon entry with dense blueberry and blackberry flavors taking center stage on the palate. Earthiness continues to thread throughout suggesting a meaty dish with mushrooms - pair with beef or lamb stroganoff!

EOS 2003 Cupa Grandis Paso Robles Petite Sirah
Whoa baby, talk about full bodied - layers upon layers of flavors! Here’s a tightly wound bundle of intense blackberry and black currant flavors with pretty oak nuances and spicy pepper accents that won’t quit! This hearty, full bodied rendition benefits nicely from decanting; and will definitely go the distance for years to come. Pair with a rich Steak Diane for a real taste treat!

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